Last year we decided to go from raising beef cows (the big
cows had the babies and raised them), to raising Holstein bottle calves. Bottle
calves, for those who don't know, are day-old calves diaries separate from the
milking cows within hours of being born. Some feed the colostrums to the calves
and some do not. This can make the difference in a healthy calf and one that
needs extra attention or one that just doesn't survive. We ran into a lot of
that last year. We had many that because of their treatment at birth (sent
immediately to a sale barn for whatever they could get) died within weeks if
not days of our buying them. I hate when that happens. I get attached very
quickly to my calves and I feel it deeply when they don't make it. As a result
of the pneumonia most of them acquired within days of leaving the sale barn, we
had to keep them inside all winter, which turned out to be very long.
Our barn cleaner chain had not been used in years, so we
were constantly repairing it and putting it back in the gutter. It usually
slipped off its wheels when it was full, so getting it back on required a winch
and a lot of time. Also, because we had not used the system in years, the pipe
to the retaining slab from the intake pit was plugged with years-old dry matter.
Once it got wet, it swelled and would not let the waste through. We had to call
someone from 80 miles away with special equipment to use high pressure water
jets to 'drill' the pipe out. Most farms that have been running constantly
don't have that issue often. Hopefully, we won't either for a while.
In the fall, we did obtain some really healthy weaned calves
that were not bought from a sale barn, but from a local farmer. That makes a
huge difference, as they had given the colostrums to the calves for several
days before putting the moms back on the production line. Now, those are the
kind of calves you want. Since we had to take down our pasture fence to allow a
combine into a soybean field, and the deer had done a lot of damage as well, we
had no secure pasture for them, so they too had to be tied into the barn. Our
barn used to be a dairy barn so we were using the tie stalls from the dairy
cows and they all had to stay in for the winter.
Calves don't stay calves for long, in fact, healthy ones
grow rather fast and they eat enormous amounts of hay. Farmer's control the
amount of grain and hay cattle get, but while grain is fed in a few pounds a
day, hay is fed in bales. The winter ran so long we ran out of the small
manageable bales and had to put large round bales in the barn and roll them
out, using a pitchfork and wheel barrow to feed the animals. They could go
through a bale a day easily. These are four to five feet across and have to be
moved by tractor, but since the tractor won't fit into the barn, they have to
be rolled manually. It usually takes two people until it gets down quite a few
layers.
Calves are also quite clever. They could teach magicians a
few tricks in the escape arts. We used a variety of types of clips and they
somehow figured out how to unscrew, unclip, or outright break the chains that
held them in regularly. When you're all alone doing the chores that can be a
lot of fun –not- getting them back to their stalls. First, you have to catch
them, and they run really fast when they want to. Then, you have to get a rope
on their heads and make a harness out of it. Next, since they were usually in
the feed aisle, they had to be coaxed to go all the way down the aisle and
around to middle walkway and back to their stalls, and stand still to be
re-attached to the chain. Often I had to fix the chain before I even went for
the cow. This might sound easy, getting
them back to their stalls, but let me tell you, when they are loose, they
decide if they are going to move or not and you are not going to drag them.
They will spread out their legs and hold their ground. Unless a calf is trained
as a show animal, they cannot be lead. You have to get off to the side and tap
them in just the right place while leading the rope as one would a horse. Usually
when they decide to take off, it's at a dead run and you could get dragged
rather than running alongside of them. It can be very dangerous, and they can
in their sudden taking off dislocate your shoulder, which is also true if you
try to drag them. A lot of people use a cattle prod, which is a long fiberglass
stick with a plastic handle on one end and a taser-like device on the other
end. These are very effective at persuading the cattle to move, but again, if
they don't have a rope, you can't control easily where they will go, and once
they are moving, it's hard to stop them, even if someone else is in front of
them. Sometimes they stop with a skid, and others, they trample the person
standing in front if they don't get out of the way in time. We roped them, got
to the side and got them moving, and then jumped into their stalls and wrapped
the rope around the pipe they had been chained to and sort of winched them in,
or tied it off in a way that it could be loosed and pulled tight again easily
and then got with them in the walk aisle and got them moving again until they
jumped into their stall. This was usually if only one person was in the barn
trying to move them. I have been known to tie the stubborn animal to a post and
call for help from my brother-in-law or nephews. Then of course, once the
animal is back in the stall, everyone is mad because they haven't been fed, but
the feed aisle has to be cleaned of the manure and limed down to dry it up, and
then they can be fed.
As they were not full grown and the barn was not stocked
full to the brim with animals, the cold could be too much for the water system
and then we had to torch the lines and each bowl to thaw them so the animals
could get water. This had to be done several times a day when it was extremely
frigid. At one point, it got so bad we opted to just shut the water down to
them and go give them buckets several times a day until it 'warmed' up enough
that it wasn't freezing the lines faster than they could be thawed. At one
point, the cows were so anxious about the promise of spring, they started
butting heads under the stanchions dividing them and they ended up banging the
shared water bowl to a point they broke the line. That was fun! At least I had
learned how to rebuild the water lines and was able to fix it myself.
One would think as anxious as the cows were to get outside;
they would gladly leave the barn when we tried to put them out to pasture at
last. Nope. It was hours to just get thirty cows out of the barn. They ran all
over the place and into other stalls and knocked each other all over the place,
and my husband ended up with several broken bones in his hands and feet and we
both had bruises and cuts and scrapes, but we got them out. The next morning
they had knocked the cattle panel gate over (the ground was too soft from the
mud and the post didn't stay put) and several of them were back in the barn. It
took another hour to get them back out where they belonged and we put up a
sturdier gate and more posts to hold it.
Some lessons learned:
1. Get a cattle prod!
2. If you get calves at a sale barn (which is a
really bad idea unless you have no other means) get them early in the week; if
it's a Saturday, they are left over from the other days of sales and sale barns
do not feed the calves. Day-old calves don't eat grain or hay yet and most of
the barns will not go to the trouble of bottle feeding the calves. They're
half-starved and sick by the time you get them.
3. Turn them
out immediately upon weaning so that they don't get too big to handle in the
barn. The bigger they get, the smarter they get and will figure out how to get
loose from their stalls and are harder to put back!
4. Get a cow dog that knows what it's doing. We
have never been fortunate enough to get a herd dog that went for the heel as
it's supposed to. For some reason they always went for the nose and turned the
cows around the wrong way. I should quit getting puppies and get them already
trained, but I suck at dog training. I'm great at dog spoiling!